I came to Nyungwe Forest National Park to see primates. That is the reason most people come. It is one of the best places in East Africa for chimpanzee trekking and monkey tracking. The forest is old and dense, and it sits high in the mountains of southwest Rwanda. If you want primates, this is the park to choose.
But it is not simple. It takes planning, patience, and the right expectations.
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Key Points
- Book chimpanzee permits in advance because spaces are limited, especially in peak season.
- Choose lodging near Uwinka or Gisakura to cut down on long morning drives.
- Be ready for steep, slippery trails and bring proper hiking boots and rain protection.
Why Nyungwe Forest National Park Stands Out
Nyungwe Forest National Park is different from Akagera or Volcanoes. The animals are in the trees, not on open savanna or mountain slopes. You will not see lions, elephants, or gorillas here. You will see primates.
More than a dozen species live in the park, including chimpanzees, colobus monkeys, and L’Hoest’s monkeys. I found it refreshing because it demanded a slower pace and sharper eyes.
If your main focus is primates, this is where to go. If you want a broad safari mix, then you should also look at Akagera National Park and Volcanoes National Park. Each park offers something very different.
Chimpanzee Trekking in Nyungwe
Most visitors want the chimps. There are two main groups that can be tracked: one in Cyamudongo Forest and another in the main Nyungwe area.
I went to Cyamudongo. It is a small, isolated patch of forest on the park’s edge. The trail was steep and muddy, even in the dry season. It took about two hours of hiking before we heard the chimps calling.
When we found them, they were moving fast. Watching chimps is not like watching gorillas. They are not calm or easy to photograph. They climb, scream, and swing quickly out of sight. I had to move fast and stay alert. It was worth it, but it was not easy.
Permits cost about $90 USD per person. That is cheaper than gorilla permits, but still adds up if you are traveling as a family. Tours usually start at dawn, so staying close to the trailheads matters.
Monkey Tracking Options
Besides chimps, Nyungwe is famous for the colobus monkeys. The colobus groups here are massive. Some have hundreds of individuals.
When I tracked them near Gisakura, I felt surrounded by black-and-white shapes moving through the canopy. It was one of the most unique wildlife experiences I have had.
Tracking permits for colobus are around $60 USD. You can also look for other species like blue monkeys and L’Hoest’s monkeys. These are usually spotted along the regular hiking trails, so a guided forest walk often doubles as a primate tour.
If you are combining this with other parks, check Rwanda tour packages to see how operators balance gorillas, savanna, and forest primates into one trip.
Hiking Trails and Canopy Walk
Nyungwe is not only for primates. The hiking network is extensive, with over 130 kilometers of trails. Some trails are short, one or two hours. Others take a full day.
The most popular extra activity is the canopy walkway. It is a 90-meter suspension bridge that hangs above the forest. The view is impressive, but if you are afraid of heights, it can feel shaky.
I found that hikes without primates can be underwhelming if you only came for wildlife. Birders love Nyungwe because of the rare Albertine Rift species. Casual travelers may not be satisfied by distant bird calls. Go in knowing that this is a forest experience, not a savanna safari.
Where to Stay Near Nyungwe
I stayed in Gisakura, which is the most practical base. Here are actual places worth considering:
- Gisakura Guest House: A no-frills budget option right at the forest edge, $30–50 USD per night. Rooms are basic with cold showers, but it is walking distance to the ranger station for colobus monkey tracking. I liked that you could eat home-style meals here with staff and locals.
- Nyungwe Top View Hotel: About $150–200 USD per night. Built on a ridge with sweeping views of the forest and tea plantations. Rooms are in round cottages. The restaurant is slow but has hearty portions. It is a 30-minute drive from Uwinka, so plan early departures.
- Gisakura Guest Cottages (formerly ORTPN Rest House): Mid-range, around $80–100 USD. Simple twin rooms, hot water available most of the day, and easy access to Gisakura offices. I found this convenient after a long hike.
- One&Only Nyungwe House: $700+ USD per night. The only true luxury lodge in the area, set inside a working tea plantation. Each suite has a fireplace, and the property offers private guiding, spa treatments, and fine dining. It is expensive but makes the early morning starts more comfortable.
The choice matters because chimp treks start early. If you stay far away, you will be up well before dawn driving mountain roads. I learned that the hard way on my first morning.
For a broader look at accommodation, see Rwanda safari lodges. Lodging quality in Rwanda is better than many expect, but always confirm hot water and power supply.
Packing and Preparation Tips
Trails in Nyungwe are slippery year-round. The forest is wet even in the dry season.
Bring sturdy hiking boots with ankle support. I also carried a light rain jacket, even on sunny days. It rained twice in one morning trek.
Guides recommend long pants to protect against stinging nettles. Gloves are useful if you expect to push through thick vegetation. The park provides walking sticks, but they are basic. If you have trekking poles you like, bring them.
For a full breakdown, I suggest checking my Rwanda safari packing list. What you carry here will differ from what you need in Akagera’s open plains.
Getting to Nyungwe
The park is in Rwanda’s southwest corner. It takes about 5–6 hours to drive from Kigali on paved but winding mountain roads. The drive is scenic, passing through tea plantations and small towns, but it is long if you are arriving straight off a flight.
Some travelers hire a driver through Rwanda tour companies. A driver usually costs $100–150 USD per day including fuel, which is fair given the mountain terrain. Self-drive is possible, but traffic, sharp curves, and local driving habits require confidence and patience. Roadblocks for police checks are also common, so have your papers ready. If you are thinking about it, see my guide to Rwanda safari car rental.
There is also a small airport at Kamembe, about an hour from the park, with flights from Kigali. These flights save time but run on limited schedules, cost around $150–200 USD one-way, and delays are common.
Most people still drive, especially if they want to break up the trip with a night at Lake Kivu along the way.
Costs and Park Fees
Entry fees are $100 USD per person per day for foreign non-residents. Rwandans and East African residents pay less. That fee does not include primate tracking permits, which are extra.
Guided hikes start at around $40 USD per person. Specialized activities like chimp trekking or colobus tracking are $60–90 USD. Always confirm what is included. Sometimes transport to the trailhead is not covered, which can lead to surprise charges.
If you are planning a longer trip, see Rwanda eco tours for options that combine parks with cultural visits. A full Rwanda safari often includes Volcanoes, Akagera, and Nyungwe. For planning across all three, I put together a guide at Rwanda safaris.
Local Culture and Nearby Stops
The park is surrounded by tea plantations. You will see workers picking leaves in the morning. Some lodges arrange tours of the plantations.
I took one in Gisakura. It gave me a better sense of daily life here beyond the forest. The pace is slow, and families often wave as you pass on the road.
If you have time, you can extend your trip to Lake Kivu, about two hours north of Nyungwe. The lake towns like Kibuye offer a calmer stop before or after the forest. This break can be helpful because trekking in Nyungwe is tiring.
For official park details, including updated fees and permit availability, check Visit Rwanda.
